Polyglutamic acid (PGA) elevates hydration science by exploiting a polymer of the amino acid l-glutamic acid linked through gamma bonds. Initially discovered as the sticky matrix in natto – a Japanese fermented-soy delicacy – PGA boasts the ability to hold up to five thousand times its weight in water, dwarfing hyaluronic acid’s oft-quoted one-thousand-fold claim. Its long, negatively charged chains intertwine with keratin proteins, forming an invisible lattice that slows water evaporation and imparts a cushiony slip.

Laboratory corneometry studies demonstrate a 2-percent PGA serum boosting skin moisture by 60 percent after thirty minutes and maintaining a 25-percent elevation at eight hours, outperforming low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid in both magnitude and duration. PGA also inhibits hyaluronidase, the enzyme that degrades native hyaluronic acid, preserving internal hydration resources. Uniquely, it fosters natural moisturizing factor by stimulating filaggrin breakdown, thereby increasing stratum-corneum amino acids.

From a sensory standpoint, PGA imparts a silky, non-sticky finish even at high percentages, making it a formulator’s dream for water-gel creams and hydrating mists. Unlike hyaluronic acid, it resists the “balling” phenomenon when layered beneath silicone primers. Its large size anchors it near the surface, creating an occlusive mesh that still feels breathable – a boon for oily or humid-climate users who shun heavy occlusives like petrolatum.

Clinical applications extend beyond moisture. Studies on surgical scars show PGA sheets improve elasticity and color maturation, while in wound-healing models, PGA’s bio-adhesive film shortens re-epithelialization time. Because it is derived via Bacillus fermentation, it ticks vegan and eco-friendly boxes, and life-cycle analyses reveal lower water and energy footprints compared with animal-sourced collagen.

In practice, apply a pea-sized dollop of PGA serum onto slightly damp skin, follow with a ceramide-rich moisturizer for a two-step hydration seal, and expect bouncy suppleness that lasts through workdays. Those battling transepidermal water loss – retinoid beginners, eczema sufferers – often find PGA fast-tracks comfort. Its compatibility with acids, retinoids, and vitamin C cements the polymer as hydration’s versatile new star.